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Thursday, September 27, 2007

Love letter to my kitchen

Dear Kitchen,

I'm gonna miss you when I move out next month.

Remember when we first met eight years ago? I saw you during an open house. You were living where you live now, but back then it was the house that time forgot. It's a post war house that, at the time of the open house, had last been decorated, I'd guess, 40 years prior, whatever year it was that the color reigning supreme in the collective unconsciousness was brown. Brown wood paneling, brown shag carpeting, brown corduroy sofas. It was the Brady Bunch meets Sanford and Son. That decor scared off all potential buyers, an impressive feat during the height of the Dot Com boom years. Hell, even N and I ran screaming out the door during that open house. Then our visionary realtor splashed some ice water on our faces. "It's only cosmetic." Our cook's and teacher's salaries weren't going to score that remodeled Victorian on Potrero Hill. So we settled on your house, the runt of the litter, but in a great neighborhood. We were the only bidders.

I personally tore off all that paneling and worked with the realtor's husband to smooth the walls. I ripped up all the carpeting by myself, discovering beautiful untouched hardwood floors hiding beneath. Within a year, we replaced the shades of brown with sage, butter, lavender, and rose.

Remember how you looked back then, Kitchen? Tattered linoleum floors, metal cabinets with rusted doors, barely two feet of counter space, a wobbling ceiling fan with blades that threatened to decapitate, a mobile dishwasher with a hose that attached to the sink. Oh that sink! That improbably tiny sink. It could barely fit a pasta pot. How did she do it? How did that Italian mother feed her husband and two sons for 40 years from that space?

Throughout that first year of politely getting to know one another, I plotted like Henry Higgins how I'd transform you. I took your measurements. I drew countless sketches on graph paper of every possible layout. I met with kitchen designers for free consultations. I chatted with friends who had remodeled their kitchens to learn from their successes and mistakes. Whenever the new issue of Saveur arrived, I immediately turned to the photos of that month's featured kitchen. Then finally, after months of planning and construction, my visions magically took form. You became what you are today, a Pacific Heights/Upper East Side debutante. If you were a woman, you'd be beating back Gavin Newsome's advances at the office holiday party.

What I love most about you, Kitchen, is you're not only sexy, you're practical. I designed a place for everything within your cherry cabinets. Vertical slots hold cutting boards and sheet pans, deep drawers hold everything from cast iron pans to rolling pins, and cabinets above hold spices, tea, and my grandmother's china. A shallow pantry where the stove used to be holds my million jars of rices, flours, sugars, dried beans, and homemade jams. There's even a couple of shelves for my most dogeared cookbooks. Our friend poured 12 feet of concrete counters, 6 feet on each side of the fancy new range I bought for you, enough territory to keep several friends busy prepping at once. And your tiny original sink? It became my prep sink next to the fridge. The tall drawer I put beneath that sink holds the compost bin — another favorite feature. For the dishwashing area, I had a restaurant fabricator make you a huge stainless steel sink and place it next to the window, along with a real dishwasher. I have to say your design is one of my proudest accomplishments of that era of my life.

We've had some good times together, haven't we? The dinner parties and the brunches for my friends, and of course the countless breakfasts, lunches, and dinners for just N and me. But the times I loved best were those hours we spent together, just the two of us. How many hours have I whiled away perched on a stool at the butcher block table in the middle of the kitchen reading a cookbook or typing my blog posts on my laptop? How many meals have I eaten there? How many photos have I snapped in the perfect late afternoon light streaming through your window? Every recipe created on this blog was cooked within your walls. Nearly every dish I will prepare in my restaurant was first tested in your space.

How, I ask, would I have ever gotten through the death of my mother five years ago or, more poignantly, these challenging past four months without the sanctuary of your walls? When my heart was broken, you were my hearth. I found solace this summer taming your flames to saute corn and zucchini, stew fresh shell beans, slowly roast salmon, and bake summer pies and gallettes. You, who sprang from my mind and heart, provided me comfort and support when I needed it most. I doubt if I could have faced the prospect of cooking dinners for one without you.

A wise and dear friend of mine assures me I can and will create beautiful new kitchens in the future. And  deep down I know she's right. I know that the kitchen in the new flat where I'm moving next month just needs a little love and attention to be functional. Plus, the reality is I'm going to be spending most of my time in the brand spanking new kitchen in that little restaurant I'm opening. So, please, don't feel sorry for me. I guess when it comes down to it I'm just feeling a little sentimental before moving on to the next phase of my life.

Thanks for all the wonderful times, Kitchen. You can't imagine how much I'm gonna miss you. Hope whoever buys the house will treat you well.

xxoo,
Brett

Friday, September 14, 2007

Olallie Update (XII): Pulling myself up

Olallie_updatePrevious progress reports on Olallie can be found here:  Prequel, Intro, Parts I, II, III, IV, V, VI, VII, VIII, IX, X, XI

One morning in early June, I went for a run through Golden Gate Park. The air was crisp and cool and the leaves on the trees were the color of a freshly poured glass of Chartreuse. Along the side of the trails, nasturtiums burst into bloom like votive candles at a Tibetan temple. I was soaking all this in when SLAM! I found myself face to face with dirt. Fine gravel imbedded into my knees and palms. I looked over my shoulder and couldn't figure out what had happened, what had tripped me. I pulled myself up, brushed off the dirt and gravel. I felt a little shaken up. I started running again, slowly at first. Blood trickled down my left leg and my hands stung.

Life's like that sometimes, isn't it? Sometimes we stumble. Sometimes we lose a little skin. Sometimes we bleed. Something inside me compelled me to finish my run. You can do this, Brett. I knew I'd make it. I wanted to. I had to.

I ran every day after N and I had The Talk. It kept me sane. I ran and ran and didn't stop running until 6 weeks later I found myself crossing the finish line of the San Francisco half marathon, 10 minutes faster than my most optimistic goal, my fists pumping in the air. That day that I fell down, just 1 week after The Talk, was a snap shot of how I've pulled myself through this challenging time in my life. I could've just lain there on the trail and felt sorry for myself. I could've even sobbed. Why did this happen to me? What did I do to deserve this? How could I have not seen whatever it was that tripped me? How could I have prevented this from happening? Believe me, all those thoughts flashed across my mind. But, in that moment on that trail, I chose not to indulge them. I got up and finished what I had set out to do.

My big news today is that this week — after 4 months of deliberating, hand wringing, soul searching, and on occasion bleeding — I gave word to my architects and contractors to resume work on my restaurant in Noe Valley! Stay tuned for details.

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Wednesday, September 12, 2007

Quince

Since opening four years ago, Quince has been my go to restaurant for celebrating special occasions. So how could I refuse an invitation to join some favorite food bloggers in dining there last night — at the chef's table in the kitchen no less — compliments of Visa Signature?

Michael and Lindsay Tusk of Quince are still at the top of their game. Even arriving from New York at 3 am yesterday morning didn't slow them down (they were in NYC to cook dinner at the Beard House). Lighting wasn't so good, so my pictures don't do our meal justice. Thank you Heather, Linda, Jennifer, and Michael for hosting a spectacular evening!

Check out the Visa Signature website for listings of the posh food and wine events you can attend for a steal if you have a Visa Signature card. 5-course dinner with Tim and Nina Zagat at La Folie for $75 per person (price includes wine pairings from Souverain Winery, tax, and tip!) sound enticing? (Bummer it's sold out, but there will be similar events in the future).

Last night's tasting menu with wine pairings:

Stuzzechini del giorno
squash blossom stuffed with lobster
vitello tonnato with capers
NV Fanciacorta, Ca' del Bosco, Brut, Lombardy, Italy

Dirty Girl Farm tomato tris
gazpacho, crudo & flan
2005 Grauburgunder Smaragd, Franz Hirtzberger, Pluris, Wachau, Austria

Tagliolini
crawfish, chanterelle mushrooms, romanesco squash & their blossoms
2005 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc, Domaine de la Solitude, Southern Rhône Valley, France

Acquerello carnaroli risotto
black sea bass, sweet peppers & extra vecchio balsamico
2006 Chardonnay, Lioco, Durell Vineyard, Sonoma Valley, California

Agnolotti di piccione (squab)
al burro fuso
2002 Barbaresco, Cantina del Pino, Ovello, Piedmont, Italy

Watson Farm lamb
La Tercera Farm stridoli & shelling beans
2000 Château Soussans, Margaux, Bordeaux, France

Concord grape sorbet
green grape juice, grape sections

Black mission fig clafoutis
blackberry gelato, rasperry coulis
Madeira, Broadbent Madeira Company, 10 Year Malmsey, Portugal


Monday, September 10, 2007

Opening and running a small restaurant

Two excellent print articles this past week on opening and running a small restaurant grabbed my attention. If you're jonesing for the next Olallie Update (fortune cookie says you will soon be rewarded for your patience, my little pretties), these stories will keep you company during your wait.

First, an article in last Tuesday's Chicago Trib describes a typical 18-hour day in the life of superman chef Otis Lebert as he struggles to serve 120 meals a day with a 7-person skeleton crew (that number includes the waiters and a 14-year-old kitchen apprentice!) at his humble 48-seat bistro Le Taxi Jaune in the Marais neighborhood of Paris.

Second, today's SF Chron features the heroic tale of a local restaurant crew overcoming all the shit that went wrong on one particular day early in the life of the recently opened Tinderbox, an experimental American bistro in San Francisco's Bernal Heights neighborhood.

For an exclusive insider's perspective (ah, the beauty of blogs) of opening a restaurant, check out my friend Shuna Lydon's exciting stories on Eggbeater chronicling the opening of Sens, a new Southern Mediterranean hot spot scheduled to open in a few days (or weeks?) in San Francisco's Embarcadero Center.

These three pieces, especially Shuna's series, are all making me itch to get back into the kitchen. I've helped other people open three restaurants over the years, but, as I'm sure you can all imagine, I'm most looking forward to the possibility of opening a fourth: my own.

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Friday, September 07, 2007

Burning the Temple of Forgiveness

10 minute video by WallaceBoss. I add it to my blog purely for myself, to help me remember.

Wednesday, September 05, 2007

Phoenix rising

This set contains 41 photos. Click the big photo to go to the next or navigate using the thumbnails below. Mouse over the thumbs to see each picture's title. Click the numbers at bottom to move to the next dozen thumbs.

I stripped off my kurta pajama and tossed it into the fire. It had once been my favorite, a knee-length white cotton tunic with wide Bombay style pants. My father-in-law had given it to me the year that N and I spent 2 months traveling around India for our honeymoon. That was 13 years ago. Standing in nothing but my boxers, a pair of dusty sneakers, a blue fur vest, and yellow goggles, I watched it burst into flames on the smoldering ashes of the Temple of Forgiveness. It was 3:00 Monday morning (Labor Day in the U.S.), the last day of Burning Man. I rode my bicycle back to my camp, laughing and singing the whole way. I've never felt more free.

The Tuesday we* arrived in Black Rock City (the temporary city of more than 40,000 residents that springs up annually in the Nevada desert at the end of August) there had been a full lunar eclipse early in the morning. If that wasn't enough to alert me that this would be an epic week, the battery in my watch stopped the minute we drove into the city. I'm not making this up. This bizarre coincidence got me wondering if that old naked guy doing yoga every morning (yes, ew!) in Center Camp was Rod Serling's ghost?

Thursday and Friday, we endured 3-hour long white out dust storms of biblical proportions, the worst ones any Burners could remember. The first one ripped our massive shade structure to shreds after we spent most of the morning building it. We spent a couple more hours rebuilding it the next day, only to watch the second storm destroy it again. Desert Wind Gods 2, Us 0. We unanimously decided "Fuck it. Let's just focus on having fun." After that, there were no more storms. Instead, we were treated that afternoon to a light rain and a brilliant double rainbow over the desert while we drank and danced at the Deep End Saloon. I like to think that nature was teaching us a lesson in relinquishing control and letting go.

Letting go. That was my personal goal for the week. Believe me people, I'm proud to report that I succeeded beyond my wildest expectations on that count. By the end of the week I had blisters on most toes from dancing til dawn every night. The music venues were out of control. My favorite was a set of massive geodesic domes called Root Society where DJs spun ear splitting techno** and acrobats struck poses suspended on ribbons from the ceiling (turn up your speaker volume and click here to taste the madness on YouTube). I was lucky if I slept 3 hours a night, yet I can't recall a time when I've felt more energetic or had more fun. Or maybe I was just high from sleep deprivation, etc.

I spent much of each day at the Temple of Forgiveness making peace with all the changes in my life these past 3 months. The artists that designed the temple, David Best and Tim Dawson, intended that their temple be "a vehicle for remembrances and blessings, promises and forgiveness." I joined others by adding my own words and thoughts, pictures and notes to the beautiful structure's filigreed wooden walls. Admittedly, I might have taken up more than my fair share of real estate on those walls. I had lots to say, a lot to let go of.

In case you haven't guessed yet, N and I have decided to separate and get a divorce. I could go into the reasons, but since this website is my soap box you would get to hear only one side of the story and that wouldn't be fair to N. Let's just say that at this point the decision is mutual and the separation amicable.

On the last night of Burning Man (how can it be possible that that was just 3 days ago?), I watched the Temple burn and felt a huge release. I shared many happy years with N and I don't regret a moment. But I'm ready to move on. No, it's more than that. I'm fucking excited to discover whatever the future holds for me. My phoenix rose from the ashes of that desert temple, and I can't wait to live the rest of my life filled with the inner strength, passion, and joy that I have recently rediscovered.

"To be nobody but yourself in a world which is doing its best, night and day, to make you everybody else means to fight the hardest battle which any human being can fight; and never stop fighting."

— e.e. cummings

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* I went with Fatemeh and two of her friends.

** Judging by the number of people who kept asking me if I was him, apparently I look kinda like some Canadian DJ named Richie Hawtin (aka Plastikman) who helped start techno in the early 90's in Detroit. Aside from this picture (I recently shaved my head), I don't see it.

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  • sar·dine (n) 1. a young herring or similar small fish. 2. a metaphor for the small and often less well-known ingredients, restaurants, farmers, and artisans that San Francisco-based chef Brett Emerson writes about in this website.
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