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Thursday, November 16, 2006

Is San Francisco killing restaurants?

A friend alerted me to an interesting post on Michael Bauer's (our local restaurant reviewer at the San Francisco Chronicle) blog titled "Is San Francisco Killing Restaurants?" Mr. Bauer spoke with the chefs of Foreign Cinema, husband-and-wife team Gayle Pirie and John Clark, about the expenses of doing business in San Francisco. The post has also sparked a lively debate in its comments.

While out of self-preservation I won't touch Mr. Bauer's blog with a 10-foot wooden spoon, this topic is obviously the focus of my attention right now. I'm pointing it out on my blog, because I believe it may be of interest to those of you following my quest to open a restaurant in San Francisco. Frankly, it's a topic that should be of interest to anyone who goes out to eat in our city.

While the Foreign Cinema couple points out some *sadly* humorous expenses like a "candle tax" and a "tent tax" (neither of which I was aware of!), these are relatively minor. The two more significant expenses unique to San Francisco are the recently passed Proposition F, which mandates employers to pay for 5-9 sick days for its employees, and the Board of Supervisors' new universal health care requirement. When combined with San Francisco's recent minimum wage law, the owners of Foreign Cinema estimate that these new ordinances will add $260,000 to their costs!

You may be surprised to learn that, for the most part, I support the new laws and ordinances. I agree with what New York restaurateur Danny Meyer wrote in his new book, Setting the Table: the Transforming Power of Hospitality in Business: employees come first, even before guests. It is the responsibility of any employer to take care of her employees to the best of her ability. Happy employees, in turn, will provide better service to the restaurant's guests. [To learn more about Mr. Meyer's innovative "enlightened hospitality," I recommend Shuna's excellent report on her former employer's recent visit to the Commonwealth Club].

But whether or not I support the new ordinances is beside the point. They are the new reality for every restaurant and business owner in San Francisco, small and large. In case it was not already, San Francisco will now become the most expensive city in the country to operate a restaurant, higher than Manhattan or Chicago.

It makes me wonder what the hell I was thinking when I decided to open a restaurant in this lovely, though increasingly expensive, city....

So, do I think San Francisco is killing restaurants? Nah. Speaking for myself, I know the risks and costs of this business, and yet I still have decided to open a restaurant here. I know I'll be lucky if I make a dime. I want to open a restaurant simply because I like cooking and making people happy. It's what I do. And I love this city too much to even consider doing it anywhere else. Despite the expenses. That's what the hell I was thinking.

In any event, Mr. Bauer's post will give me (and hopefully all of my SF readers) something to ponder forget tonight while celebrating the arrival of this year's beaujolais nouveau at some Frenchy restaurant in the city. Perhaps Foreign Cinema?

Cheers, Michael Bauer, for raising this very important topic!

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Saturday, November 11, 2006

Olallie Update (VI): Denial

Olallie_updateThe last month has been a turbulent one. I don't really know where to begin.

Maybe I'll start off with some good news. For one, my upcoming restaurant Olallie, this blog, and I were all featured in Tuesday's edition of  the Tablehopper! For those of you who don't know, Tablehopper™ is both an entertaining website and a free weekly email newsletter about the San Francisco dining scene written by Marcia Gagliardi. I'm very excited to have been included. I actually got to meet the vivacious Marcia on Monday at a kick off event at Coi for a fun new nationwide email aimed at the food-obsessed called Tuttifoodie - imagine Daily Candy meets Saveur Magazine. Coi's chef Daniel Patterson lead all the participants (including 2 other favorite food  bloggers) through a cooking demo of various aromatic herbs and spices, tinctures and essential oils. It was sort of like a scratch n'sniff version of his cookbook, Aroma.

The same day, my restaurant and I got a mention in the November edition of Zagat Survey's monthly email newsletter, which is another insider's guide to the dining scene of the San Francisco Bay Area (and other major cities in the US) sent to paying subscribers. Equally exciting!

The theme of this post, though, is denial. What is it I'm denying? Believe me, you have no idea how painful this is for me to write. I received some troubling news about Olallie this past month. You may recall that I wrote last month that it takes much longer to build out a non-restaurant space than it does to redesign an existing restaurant. And it costs more. Well, a few weeks ago, I learned *surprise* it's going to take twice as long and cost twice as much as I originally anticipated.

So, what is my current timeline? When will this little restaurant finally open its doors? A month ago, N and I sat down with our new architect (who we're thrilled beyond words to be working with) and sketched out a probable timeline. 2 months to design, 2 months to get the building permits, and 4-6 months to build. 6 months to build my little restaurant? 6 months?? How is that possible??? I'm still in shock. Can you tell?

In other words, it's now looking like Olallie will open some time next summer. As in 2007.

Even as I write those words, I still am shaking my head in disbelief. Like someone who has just learned he has a horrid disease, I cannot believe it. I cannot accept it. I knew that delays and financial woes are common, but, I don't know, I naively thought that it won't happen to me. I'll be different. I'll get lucky.

In a way, though, I am extremely lucky, the luckiest man on earth. And incredibly grateful. How often in a lifetime do any of us get an opportunity to try to fulfill our dreams? These challenges are making me that much more determined to turn this stupid, crazy dream of mine into a reality. I will do whatever it takes for however long it takes to open Olallie's doors.

I only have one life to live (as far as I know), so why not give it my best shot?

Read previous Wild Ride/Olallie Updates: Prequel, Intro, Parts I, II, III, IV, V

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Friday, November 10, 2006

Wild Ride → Olallie Update

Wild_ride6_6Olallie_update_1

Wild Ride will now be known as Olallie Update, after the name of my upcoming restaurant in San Francisco's Noe Valley. The picture of the guy in the leather straps with his hair standing on end was starting to bum me out. Believe me, the ride hasn't become any less wild. Stay tuned for an update on the progress of the restaurant this weekend!

Read previous Wild Ride/Olallie Updates: Prequel, Intro, Parts I, II, III, IV, V

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  • sar·dine (n) 1. a young herring or similar small fish. 2. a metaphor for the small and often less well-known ingredients, restaurants, farmers, and artisans that San Francisco-based chef Brett Emerson writes about in this website.
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