If you can't be with the one you love...

On a narrow shelf above the slicer at the front of the restaurant, where the deli man performed the final step in the magical transformation of tough beef brisket into ethereally tender pastrami and corned beef, dozens of mustard jars stood like toy soldiers, proudly displaying their labels.

"I really ought to buy one," I thought, "and bring it back to N as a surprise." Then I glanced outside at the steady rainfall and pictured myself schlepping the jar around in one hand, while balancing my flimsy umbrella in the other, as I sloshed from one of my million errands to the next. It would be hours before I headed back to my hotel room.

"What good is the mustard without the pastrami or corned beef?" I reassured myself.

I felt a twinge of guilt, as at that moment my stomach was reveling in the object of N's and my shared affection, one of the massive sandwiches of the famed Second Avenue Deli on the Lower East Side of Manhattan. Though full to the point that my belly ached as much as it has after any Thanksgiving feast, my nose couldn't resist being intoxicated by the earthy, spicy aromas that engulfed it. Garlicky, salty vinegar continued to dance on my tongue to the sounds of the crunchy-crisp rhythm of the half-sour pickles that echoed in my ears. I swooned at the thought of the samba of flavors, the sweet coleslaw and, of course, that sharp mustard that had, just moments before, punctuated each bite of my juicy pastrami on rye.

My reverie was abruptly broken by a woman's voice. "Can I get you something else, hun?"

I hesitated. "No, that'll be all." Next time, I consoled myself. Next time I'll get the mustard.

There will be no next time.

I awoke yesterday to the sad news {broken to me, in the way that can only happen in our technologically accelerated era, by a comment on this blog by a longtime reader who lives in Spain...thank you "nopisto"!} that Second Avenue Deli, which had closed its doors on January 1st, would not be reopening. The kosher deli had become a landmark in the 50 years since it was founded by Abe Lebewohl, a Ukrainian immigrant who was tragically murdered a decade ago.

I can't recall a visit to New York that didn't include a visit to this temple of pastrami and corned beef.

For a foodie, losing a favorite restaurant can be as devastating as losing a close friend {I am embarrassed to report that I am that obsessive. Pronouncing my loss, say, "as devastating as losing a pet goldfish," doesn't do justice to my sense of grief... please feel free to tell me to get a life}.

All that remains are our memories. Thankfully, because of this blog, I recorded what has become my last pilgrimage to Second Avenue Deli just a few months ago {read about it here}.

Growing increasingly distraught after David pointed me to these depressing photos, the dreary morning rain outside my San Francisco window mirrored my sullen mood.

My heart {or was it my belly?} lifted momentarily when I recalled reading of a New York-style deli opening in the Presidio Heights neighborhood of San Francisco within the building that houses the Jewish Community Center. Hopes raised further when I remembered that the illustrious Joyce Goldstein had been hired as consulting chef.

Like a widower that starts dating too soon after his wife's passing {Prince Charles comes to mind}, I made tracks to the California Street Delicatessen and Cafe (website not operational yet), where I spotted this sign.

Love the one you're with!

Would this be love at first sight?

I liked the feel of the space immediately. The black-and-white tile floor and white marble counters heaped with desserts under glass covers recall Eli Zabar's handsome E.A.T. on Manhattan's Upper East Side. Given the posh neighborhood where the California Street Deli is located, the designers aptly chose to pay homage to the Upper rather than the Lower East Side.

The host offered me a choice between sitting at a table or at the counter overlooking California Street. Being a good little blogger, I opted for the window seat with its abundance of natural light {pictured left}.

To start things off, I ordered an egg cream, which was advertised by a placard on the table with a whimsical diagram of how to properly construct one. Apparently, my waitress hadn't studied the diagram too closely, so my drink contained too high a proportion of milk, resulting in barely fizzy chocolate milk. She fixed it later when I asked her to revisit with one of the restaurant's appropriately old-fashioned seltzer bottles.

As my stomach had grown ravenous with memories of Second Avenue Deli, I steered clear of the alluring specialties listed under the heading "Joyce's Choices." Instead, I tempted disaster and accelerated at 100 miles per hour into the wall of certain disappointment.

"I'd like a large warm pastrami sandwich on rye, please. And a cup of chicken soup with a matzoh ball to start."

Imagine having your heart broken, dumped by the one who you thought would be the One, and then, the same day, going on a blind date. Or perhaps to a singles bar.

What I'm saying is it wouldn't be fair to compare a pastrami sandwich at a restaurant in San Francisco on it first day of business to the greatest pastrami sandwich in the world. With the possible exception of Katz's, I personally haven't even sampled as good of a sandwich at another deli in New York that can be called Second Avenue's equal.

However, the good news for us San Franciscans who crave the taste of echt Jewish deli food, after just one day California Street Delicatessen and Cafe is already the best of its sort in the city. The next closest deli of this caliber is 400 miles south in Los Angeles at old-time favorites Nate n' Al, Canter's, Langer's and Brent's. It's too early to say for certain, but I am convinced that I will soon add the California Street Deli to my Short List.

The matzoh ball soup {pictured above right} satisfied with its homemade chicken flavor, fluffy and tender matzoh ball, chunky vegetables and shredded chicken. I cannot imagine a better soup to sink into next time I a cold strikes. It is reason enough to return.

The pastrami sandwich was accompanied by all the elements you used to get at Second Avenue Deli. Pickled cucumbers, green tomatoes, a bowl of mustard, and a side of coleslaw. On the positive side, the pastrami tasted nicely spicy and salty and was, fortunately, not too lean. Unfortunately, the meat was sliced a touch too thick and hadn't been steamed long enough to make it meltingly tender. But, remember, it was their first day of business. There is definitely potential here.

I will go back in a heartbeat. I look forward to trying the chopped liver, latkes, blintzes, smoked fish platter, stuffed cabbage and cheesecake {hungry yet?}. Although I know I will never forget my lost love, I anticipate that this relationship will console me through those long months between visits to New York.

{By now, the lyrics to the Crosby, Stills, Nash & Young song "Love the One You're With" should be ringing in your ears}.

Joyce Goldstein and her partners have given us all one more reason to love living in San Francisco. If you need another, check out what - or more accurately who - I saw on my much needed post-lunch stroll, just a short drive away on Crissy Field. Life is to be celebrated.

California Street Delicatessen and Cafe
3200 California Street
San Francisco, CA 94118
415-922-DELI

Food|and Drink|Restaurants|Reviews|San Francisco|New York

Comments

[Tana]

Sweet post. Thanks.

[Amy]

Great post. Personally I like The Stage Deli the best, though the waitresses at Second Ave were a hoot. In San Francisco I think the best pastrami sandwich can be found at Tommy's Joynt!

[NS]

Another great post, Brett. I was stunned when I heard just recently that Sydney's, which used to occupy this space in the JCC, was no more. The food there was surprisingly good, and the prices were extremely reasonable. It may very well have been the best kept secret in town -- perhaps too well kept! Oh well, I'm glad to hear your positive review of the California Street Delicatessen & Cafe, and I've heard that a second restaurant serving Asian fusion cuisine will be opening up right next door.

[jen maiser]

Oh, I am so happy to read this post. As I was reading your homage to 2nd Avenue Deli and saw you switch to the new JCC deli, I thought to myself "oh no! too high of expectations! didn't he know that it was their *first* day?" but it sounds like there is definitely potential there. I am going to try and wait a week or two before going.

[jeanne]

When I heard the news I, too, was sad. This place was my early 20s pre-disco nap Saturday 4pm fuel stop. Sniff. Sniff.

[Brett]

Tana, you're welcome.

Amy, next time I'm in NYC I'll have to give Stage a try. But I have to admit I'm skeptical about Tommy's Joynt. Do you mean that absurdly decorated place on Van Ness? Though I suppose I shouldn't judge a book by it's cover.

NS, I never made it to Sydney's. This deli concept seems like the perfect fit for the space. Amazing that they recruited Joyce Goldstein - very impressive. I wonder how the Asian fusion idea will pan out, though.

Jen, no one is more surprised than me that I went to a restaurant on its first day. Very out of character. Desperate times, though, call for desperate measures.

Jeanne, I can imagine it would be a great place to go prior to a nap. Nothing cries out for a siesta like a pastrami sandwich!

[David]

Brother's Deli in Burlingame used to be great. I don't know if it still is, but in my days, we used to make the "Hebe-Hop" (Hebrew Hop..) down there for corned beef on rye, which was the best in the Bay Area. A restaurant reviewer once trashed the place, and when I confronted him about it at a party, he told me he never got so many angry responses to a review. Rumor has it Second Ave Deli will re-arise somewhere in NY.

[Nopisto]

When a restaurant that we love closes we loose a part of our lives. Hope that Starbucks don't open a cofee shop there increasing the disneyfication of NYC.

Great post Brett.

[johng]

I second the Stage Deli. When they cart me to the ER it will be due, in part, to Stage Deli's chopped liver and egg salad sandwiches consumed during my NY years. You need to dislocate your jaw to get a bite in.

[haddock]

One of my bright ideas for when we might ever find ourselves in a more populated place is to open the (It's not) New York Deli, because they always do well and people always bemoan that indeed, it's not NY.

I lived blocks away from the 2nd Ave Deli for quite a while and its stuffed derma was a sure hangover meal, if not exactly a cure.

One of my favorite food memories was the look of horror on a 2nd Ave Deli waiter's face when one of my companions asked for mayo and cheese on their sandwich. The waiter refused and my friend was dumbfounded.

[tony]

The bachelor Cook from India invites you to his Blog.. RSVP

[Greg]

Your right on about the corned beef being sliced thin.I don't know if it's PC but I put the coleslaw right on the sandwich.

[FJK of Blog Appetit]

I spent more of my college years at Second Ave. Deli then I spent at classes at New York University

I am very sorry to hear of their demise. In my day they used to deliver to the NYU dorms (even in the rain and snow) and take checks.

All that and pastrami, too.

[FJK of Blog Appetit]

I spent more of my college years at Second Ave. Deli then I spent at classes at New York University

I am very sorry to hear of their demise. In my day they used to deliver to the NYU dorms (even in the rain and snow) and take checks.

All that and pastrami, too.