If there's pomegranates at the market, it must be autumn

I have a theory regarding why so many cooks in the Bay Area are obsessed with seasonality (meaning using fruits and vegetables only when they are at the peak of their season). Yes, there are the obvious reasons: close proximity to excellent farms, good distribution at farmers markets and local stores, desire to support local farms, and the majority's left-leaning support for environmental policies. Of course, everything also just tastes better when it's in season.

My theory adds our weather to the equation. We, in San Francisco at least, can't tell what season it is by the weather alone. When you live in a town where nearly every day of the year the meteroligist predicts "patchy morning fog, highs in the mid-sixties," you need to go to the farmers market or a store that specializes in seasonal, local produce to figure out what season it is (yes, I'm aware you could also simply look at the calender).

I know that it is now early autumn because, while a few tomatoes are still available, summer's sweet peaches, nectarines and figs have been replaced by pomegranates, persimmons, pears and quince.

Here's some of my loot from a recent visit to the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market. Amazingly, all these fruits were grown within 200 miles of San Francisco.

This gorgeous and very ripe pomegranate comes from Balakian Farms, located about 200 miles from San Francisco in Reedley. One indication of ripeness and sweetness are cracks in the skin of the fruit. Only the sweet-tart seeds of the pomegranate are eaten. Tomorrow I'll show you a neat trick to help you remove the seeds from this fruit with little effort.

Husband and wife James Beutel and Kalayada Ammatya of K&J Orchards are my favorite growers of the fuyu persimmon. Kalayada first convinced me to try one of her persimmons a dozen years ago when I started to shop at this market. Unlike the hachiya variety which must completely soften before it can be eaten, the fuyu is typically eaten when it is still firm. I usually peel and slice my persimmon across the horizon to reveal its beautiful star pattern. Kalayada and James (K&J) grow their persimmons in Winters, about 67 miles from the city.

According to Al Courchesne of Frog Hollow Farm, the juicy Warren pear is a difficult variety to grow. It is similar in taste and texture to the Comice pear, another of my favorite pears. Al's farm is located in Brentwood, about 54 miles east of the city.

The folks at The Apple Farm, Tim and Karen Bates, grew these quince at their beautiful farm in Philo, about 120 miles north of San Francisco (which, by the way, has reasonably priced comfortable guest rooms for visitors). Like a firm hachiya persimmon, quince are unpleasantly tannic when eaten raw. Unlike the hachiya, a quince must be cooked before it is eaten. It is naturally quite tart, so often requires a sweetener like sugar or honey. Quince can be roasted, poached, or cooked down to a paste called membrillo in Spain (traditionally served with Manchego cheese as a tapa).

Expect to see more of these lovely autumn fruits in upcoming recipes!

Food|and Drink|Farms|Markets|Fruit|San Francisco

Comments

[Barbara]

Quinces work well done as a Tarte Tartin.

Lovely photos. Pomegranetes appeared in our shops last week. I must check and see if they are from California. At $5.99 I didn't buy one. I love persimmons with a wedge of Triple Cream Brie.

[Melissa]

Gorgeous photos! That pomegranate is incredible. I've been seeing the switch-over in the markets too, but unfortunately it's all coming from far, far away. I do know someone who grows quinces, though, and I'm waiting for a bag so I can finally try my hand at making membrillo. Have you ever done it?

[jen]

nice shots, brett! and great write-up.

and congrats on your sheep ;) i was really rooting for pecorino pepato.

[cookiecrumb]

Boy, did you nail it. Seasonal.
xx

[Brett]

Barbara, thanks for those two great-sounding ideas. Persimmon and brie, so easy.

Melissa, I have not made membrillo myself, but I did make something reminiscent of membrillo that I will share in a few days.

Jen, thank you on both counts. There may not be a sheep named Pepato, but I'm excited and amused there's one named Brett on FarmGirl's farm!

Cookiecrumb, I love eating fruits in season. Just when I get bored with peaches, here come the pears! It never gets boring in this neck of the woods.